I have always had a love for the ocean and been drawn to it. There is something about being out in the water, waves crashing over head, diving under water to the bottom and holding your breath so you don’t get taken out by the set that is rolling in. I feel free.
It was a perfect summer day in Cape Town, 37 degrees and the ocean was a turquoise blue with almost endless visibility. I couldn’t pass up the chance to go for a swim. I couldn’t remember the last time I had been for a swim. Lets be honest, going for a swim the ocean in Cape Town is not easy. It takes about 30 minutes of you asking yourself, should I go? No, the water is cold! Wait, it will be worth it, did you see that set that just came in. Then it takes another 30 minutes to suit up in a 5mm wetsuit with booty’s and a hood. Then you just sit on the sand to warm up before you brave the freezing Atlantic ocean. [pullquote_left]”There is something about being out in the water, waves crashing over head, diving under water to the bottom and holding your breath so you don’t get taken out by the set that is rolling in.”[/pullquote_left]
Finally I man up and dive in. It wasn’t so bad after all! I was so excited to be out in the water. I swam out the back line and the waves were bigger than they looked from the beach. I managed to dive under a few and then I saw the perfect barrel roll in, I swam over the where It broke and I just sat there waiting for another one to come. I was on high, being in the ocean, photographing surf is a happy place for me and it give so much energy.
I saw all the surfers start paddling to the right, so I positioned myself right in the line to link up with the surfer as he caught the wave. I as ready and I could see him paddling, I was the perfect place and he came right past me, I was holding my arm out straight as he came past me. I nailed it! I got the shot.
The next wave came crashing over head and I went over the falls, holding my breath and rolling around underwater, I felt my fin get pulled off my foot. I eventually pushed the surface to take a breath of air. That was hectic but i’m alive. Telling myself a mental note for next time, wear fin leashes. I stayed out for awhile longer kicking around with only one fin. It didn’t bother me because I was having so much fun.
It was great way to start the Year!